What is this thing called cross
stitch? Well...in a way, cross stitch is just like embroidery or
needlepoint. But that one statement will often bring many
handcrafters to the boiling point. Die hards from each type of
craft think that their own craft is the best and they just don't
like being compared to the others.
So...to simplify things lets say that cross stitch is mainly
stitching with planned x's like this xxx or angles like this
///// or lines like this ----- with loops and controlled knots.
Now you just put the stitches together and you can create some of
the most beautiful gifts ever given to anyone.
Let's Look at Some Cross Stitch Basics
Cross-Stitch has become such a popular type of handcraft that you
often find the crafters no longer use a kit for their projects,
they create their own. But, before you can go out on your own and
start creating your own art, you will need to know more about the
fabrics, thread, needles and frames. That's why most Crafters
start out with a kit.
Also, when you buy patterns or kits, you may decide to use
different fabrics and threads than what is mentioned in the kit
projects. The following will help you to understand and adapt the
patterns and materials for your own needs.
Cross-Stitch Fabrics
What is called counted cross-stitch can be stitched on just about
anything that will allow you to make consistently even sized
stitches. I have even seen people use an iron on pattern and an
iron on grid to insure the even stitches they wanted. (Like on
T-shirts)
Aida Cloth
Aida cloth is the most common of all the cross-stitch fabrics.
Look close at the fabric and you will see that the woven threads
are grouped and separated by little tiny spaces. This makes a
pattern of squares so that even a beginner will be able to see
exactly where their cross-stitches need to be placed. Aida cloth
comes in 6,8,11,14,16 and 18 count threads but 14 count is the
most often used thread count for the beginner. Aida cloth comes
in a variety of colors and threads counts and for the beginner
they even have (in the white cloth only) a removable grid of
pre-basted threads. Now how about that for being helpful?
Linen
Over all, because of the price, linen is considered to be an
excellent fabric to work with by the more experienced
cross-stitchers. The threads that they use to weave the linen
cause a slightly irregular thickness to work on. And when you buy
linen you need to remember that most designs are stitched over
two threads so, 28-count linen will work out a 14 stitches per
square inch. Linen is made in counts of 14 to 40 count so at 14
you would have 7 stitches per square inch and at 40 you would
have 20 stitches per square inch.
Sweaters
Sweaters are an excellent background for cross-stitch. Just by
basting a grid onto the sweater you will be able to have the even
consistent stitches you want. But don't try cross-stitching on
knits without the grid because knit stitches are not square. They
are wider than they are tall and your design will appear broader
and shorten than the pattern you are working from.
Burlap
Burlap can be counted and stitched as easily as any other
traditional cross-stitch fabric. And if you are working a country
style pattern it will give you that little extra something we all
look for in the work we do.
Evenweave Fabric
The recent popularity of cross-stitching has created a need for
specialty fabrics. These fabrics are called evenweave fabrics
because they are woven from threads of a consistent diameter.
Most of the evenweave fabrics are counted by so many threads by
the inch and are worked much like the linen fabrics.
Needlepoint Canvas
Quite often needlepoint canvas is used for cross-stitch,
especially on clothing and things that are not suitable alone. In
fact waste canvas is designed to unravel when dampened. And the
count runs from 6 1/2 to 20 stitches per inch.
Hardanger Fabric
Now hardanger fabric is used for the extra fine cross-stitch.
This is the traditional fabric used for the famous Norwegian
embroidery of the same name. This weave produces 22 small squares
per inch.
Threads for Cross-Stitching
Most threads used for embroidery can be used for cross-stitching,
just separate the threads into ones, twos, threes, fours, etc,
etc. The more threads you use the richer the work will look, the
less threads the more fragile it will look. The rayon or silk
floss will give your work a shine or slick look but sometimes
they are more difficult to use as they tend to tangle. Pearl
cotton is also a high sheen.
Flower Thread and Other Specialty Threads
Flower thread is 100% cotton with a matte finish and is used as a
single thread (same as two ply). Over dyed threads are introduced
on the market almost everyday. Most of them give that one of a
kind appearance because of their irregularly variegated colors.
All of the threads I have mentioned so far are available in this
form also. They are great for when you want to change colors
without having the need to change threads.
Yarn and Ribbon
When working with the large projects you can use yarn, ribbon and
even strips of fabric to give your work your own personal touch.
The larger the squares the larger ply thread you can use.
Needles
Generally blunt pointed needles are better for working on most
cross-stitch fabrics because they slip through the holes and
threads without snagging and splitting the fibers. There is one
exception to this rule, when working with waste canvas you will
need to use the sharp embroidery type needles. And a lot of
companies sell the blunt needles labeled "Cross-stitch"
but they are identical the the tapestry needles which have a much
larger selection to choose from.
The First Pattern
Your first pattern should be something small and simple, so you
would be better off starting out with a small kit. It's kind of
like using training wheels on your first bike... it will give you
a little security. Besides it comes with needles, floss, fabric
and anything else you need to complete your first project.
Good luck and happy stitching.
For more Arts
and Crafts articles by Ian Williamson please visit www.real-articles.com/Category/Crafts/85
Many people like to add embellishments to their cross stitch, and
a great way to do this is with beads. In many situations,
it’s also another way to avoid doing the dreaded French
knot!
Beads usually cover one space instead of a cross stitch. I would
suggest sewing the beads after their surrounding cross stitching
is complete because they need to be well secured, and lie on top
of the cross stitches. For regular and small size beads, use one
strand of floss or for heavier beads you can use two strands.
There is also black or white "Nymo" beading thread, and
there is "invisible" YLI thread which can be used for
beading. If you can’t find these, use a color of thread that
is either close to the color of the bead, or similar to the
background, so that the thread doesn’t detract from the
bead.
The size of the needle usually depends on the size of the bead.
With seed beads use a fine pointed needle such as a quilting
needle, appliqué needle or beading needle. The hole in most
beads is too small to be used with a regular cross stitch needle.
Beading needles are long and flexible with very narrow eyes. You
can also use a regular hand sewing needle in a pinch, because
they’re the only ones thin enough for the beads to fit over.
All of these needles are more difficult to thread though, you
will probably need a needle threader.
A half cross stitch is normally used to attach them, and you
should stitch in the same direction as the lower half of the
cross stitch. Some designs suggest that a full cross stitch is
used. The difference is the way that the beads will lay. With a
half stitch the bead will sit on a slant, while with a full cross
stitch the hole through the bead will lie up and down or sideways
depending on which way you place it. Whichever you choose though,
make sure you sew them all the same way. Many times the
instructions will tell you the best way to do it for your
pattern. Either way, the bead should be on its side though, not
lay flat.
The packets that beads come in are small and do not close easily,
so in order to make sure you don’t lose any, find a suitable
household container, with a lid, into which you can easily dip
your needle and pick up a bead. Children and animals are a great
danger to the safety of your beads, and the beads can be a danger
to them, so keep them far away from each other.
A final word of caution, NEVER iron beadwork. The beads will
probably break, or could melt and ruin all your hard work.
Katrina Renouf is the founder
and owner of the cross stitch website www.matkailuxstitch.com
Découpage is a very
accessible craft for beginners but can also be taken to artistic
heights. In fact serious découpage artists are known as
découpeurs (sometimes spelled “decoupers”). There is a
National Guild of Découpeurs (NGD). NGD is a non-profit
organization dedicated to providing education in the art of
découpage, to encouraging a high level of quality, and to
offering an exchange of creative ideas. NGD is worldwide and
holds an Annual Convention and Exhibition each April. To see some
beautiful examples of découpage, visit their
website:http://www.decoupage.org/theguild.asp.
The word “découpage” comes from the French
“couper” meaning “to cut”. Découpage is the
art of permanently decorating surfaces with paper cutouts. The
cutouts are glued to the surface and then several coats of
varnish, lacquer, glaze or clear-drying glue are applied to give
a lacquered finish.
The list of items that can be découpaged is virtually endless
but most common are: furniture; wooden boxes and trays of all
size and shape; clear glass objects such as plates, platters,
bowls, vases, candle holders and paperweights; metal trays and
boxes; clay pots; and of course, wall art.
Any theme can be employed but Victorian designs are probably the
most popular because modern découpage is a revival of the art
that flourished in 18th and 19th century Europe.
The art has a long and fascinating history. In eastern Siberia,
cutout felt figures and designs were used to decorate objects
found in tombs dating from before the time of Christ.
The art of elaborate cutting seems to have spread from there to
China. In 12th century China, paper cutouts were used to decorate
windows, lanterns, gift boxes and other objects. After a while,
artisans began applying multiple layers of lacquer to make their
work more durable and attractive.
In the late 17th century, lacquer furniture from the Far East
became fashionable in Europe. Demand quickly exceeded supply and
Venetian cabinet-makers and lacquerers began to copy and change
the art form.
At that time, the wealthy were in the habit of commissioning
master painters to paint their furniture. It didn’t take
long for the
découpeurs to draw copies of masterworks and have prints made
for their use. In fact, many antiques formerly believed to have
been painted by the masters were later found to have been copies
using very skillful découpage.
To learn more about découpage and how to use this technique
yourself, visit:
http://www.theartfulcrafter.com/decoupage-two.html.
Eileen Bergen
The Artful Crafter
http://www.theartfulcrafter.com
Ms. Bergen has had a
varied career, first as a special education teacher and than,
after getting a MBA degree, as a vice president of a major
insurance company. For the last eight years she has been creating
and selling her crafts.
Here’s a quick and
easy Spring decoupage project for yourself or friends who garden.
Materials:
Plant images and names cut from your seed catalogues or magazines
Cardboard or balsa wood rectangles to fit your images
Wooden tongue depressors, popsicle sticks or stainless steel
skewers as stakes to mount your plant tags and poke them into the
ground
Elmer’s Glue-All or Mod Podge
Scissors
Small bowl of water
Acrylic paint (optional)
Prep surface:
If you are using balsa wood, you may need to sand off any rough
edges. Do so gently to avoid splintering the wood. Then wipe away
any dust with a damp sponge.
Decide if you want a colored background. The balsa wood
showingthrough is a nice look by itself – kind of like
old-fashioned orange crates. If you want color, apply two coats
of acrylic paint, allowing two hours drying time for each coat.
If there are any rough spots, sand again; and wipe away any dust
as before.
Decoupage
This is a great tip from Durwin Rice. If you are using images
with color on both sides (like from a catalogue or magazine),
soak each image in a small bowl of water until it stops curling
and floats freely without wrinkles.
This relaxes the paper fibers making it much easier to position
the image cleanly on the decoupage glue/sealer. Images will slide
easily into place and not be “grabbed” by the glue.
Liberally apply glue/sealer to the area for each image and slide
the image into place. Gently smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles
with your fingertips.
Using a damp sponge, wipe over the image and around the edges to
remove any stray glue.
Repeat until all your images and plant names are in place.
Let dry thoroughly.
Check for bubbles while they dry. If some develop, smooth gently.
If they are already set, pierce with a pin or craft knife, then
smooth. It won’t even show when your piece is done.
Back (Optional):
Paint the back of each tag with two coats of acrylic paint.
Embellish (Optional):
Use a wide nib pen to draw outlines, background patterns or
border trims on the front. Run the pen around the edge to give a
ice finished look.
Seal:
Using a sponge brush, apply at least two coats of acrylic-based
polyurethane. Since the markers will be exposed to the elements,
three or four would be better. You’ll also see how
additional coats add a special depth. Your markers will look as
if you hand painted them!
Mount:
Using appropriate glue or fasteners, attach each plant label tag
to a stake.
Eileen Bergen
The Artful Crafter
http://www.theartfulcrafter.com
Ms Bergen has had a
varied career, first as a teacher and later, after getting a MBS
degree, as a vice president of a major insurance company. She has
been making and selling crafts for the last 8 years.